The Barn, Four Trades Inspection

Once the framing was done, it was time for roughing in the electrical and plumbing. The day that I decided to rough in the electrical was one of the windiest days ever. In most builds this wouldn't have mattered, but since I was following the inspection schedule which stated that sheathing could not be put on until strapping had been inspected. I later learned that they were fine with sheathing being on, and in fact insisted on it. Thanks!

So, with some help from my brother-in-law, we ran most of the wires for the house in one day. Since it was windy, we also got plenty of sawdust in our faces and eyes, that was fun.

After everything was roughed-in, I called for the "inspection". The inspector barely got out of the car before telling me that I was not ready. But they were kind enough not to count it against me, and told me what I needed to fix and do to be ready.

I proceeded to fix some strapping, put on sheathing, house wrap, synthetic roofing felt, and shingles.

Weeks later, I passed the actual 4-way, with one or two adjustments and proceeded to insulating.

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The Barn, Roof Framing

After a lot of research and math, I was ready to frame the roof. Now, the plans called for 2x6 on the roof, but after a few conversations with the head inspector, I determined that 2x10s were needed to achieve R-30 insulation in the roof.

I will admit, I am not, nor do I ever plan to be a roof framer. While my angles, math, and gussets were good, my cuts and assembly of the gambrel rafters were a little less than perfect. This was discovered as we were raising the rafters. They weren't bad, in fact, they were better than I thought they were going to be, but they were just a little off.

This phase, unlike most was NOT something I could do on my own, but I was able to get my brother to help raise the rafters.  After some ladder blocking between each rafter, the roof was pretty firm.

The Barn, Framing-2nd Floor

As for wall framing on the second floor, It seemed like it was going to be pretty simple.  Just frame up two gabel ends and a bathroom. I can honestly tell you that there was nothing easy about framing a gabel end for a gambrel roof. It is of course likely that I over complicated it, but I don't think it was by much.

By looking at them they look a little thin on support, that is because they will not be supporting anything besides a window and sheathing. The roof will be self-supporting. I had to get some help raising this one. It wasn't heavy, but it was an acrobatic feat just to nail down the bottom plate with that stair opening.

The front gable was a lot easier, but I still had some help as I did not want to be chasing the wall over the edge. The bathroom wall was simple, nothing special. And the half wall was much easier. 

Most would ask why we did a 36" wall, which technically reduced the square footage of our bathroom. The reason is that we will need a flat wall to put the tub, toilet, and sink against.

As for the wall framing, that's pretty much it. The rest of the second floor will be roof framing.

The Barn, Framing-1st Floor

Now, before you get to all the pictures, keep in mind that I tend to overbuild things a little.

There is not much to framing a wall, just follow the "instructions" laid out by your architect. If framing a wall is a little above your scope, keeping things square is key. In order to keep your walls square, make all of your markings on both the top and bottom sill with them together. This is never more important than when you are roughing in the windows, doors, and triple studs.  But you also need to cut your jack studs and cripples at the same length. For the rest of the studs, I used the pre-cut 92 5/8" s-p-f studs. They cost a little more, but save you a lot of time. All of your studs will be 16" on center, but remember you sheathing will have seams at 4' increments, so an adjustment will need to be made on the first stud to end up on 4' and 8'.

The #1 reason I did not pre-build the walls off-site was because it it important to have a flat surface to help keep the wall straight. That, and they tend to get really heavy.

Speaking of heavy, the wall above consists of over 30 studs and 4 2x12s at 39". If you do this all on your own, first, get a hard hat (you may never use it, but it's always nice to have it on in case you need it), second, take it slow and use plent of supports. I had to raise the wall a little at a time and go back and forth from one end to the other, walking it up slowly. I also screwed scrap 2x12 blocks to the beam to keep the wall from slipping off of the subfloor.

This wall was much lighter and easier to raise.

The third wall, which will end up being the kitchen, was probably the hardest. Space was very limited, and once I got it up it almost went over. And if it had done that, there would have been no way to recover it on my own.

The final wall was about like the second, but I had to leave out the double sill on the ends until after it was up otherwise I would have had to push the side walls out a little because of the overlap.

The Barn, Framing-subfloor

After the tedious work of setting the footers, laying block, filling the block, and setting the anchors, it was finally time to take delivery of our lumber. 

It doesn't look like much, but that's mostly because had yet to pick up the studs and a few other pieces of lumber. But this was enough to get started. 

Before I could start the framing, the termite shields needed to be installed. This was as simple as taking 10" galvanized flashing and cutting the roll into 18" pieces, then bending the edges over the blocks.

I know this may look small but the main joists are made out of triple 2x12s.

 After about 2-3 days of work on my own, I managed to frame up the entire subfloor. This was one of the most difficult steps to do solo. In fact while attempting to hang the cross joists, I smashed my left index finger so bad that I had the drill a hole in my nail to relieve the pressure. Trust me, you want help with this step.

After a few day's break to tend to a client, I cam back to place the decking and start the wall framing.  The decking, while difficult on my own, did not take but about 3 hours. Because of the size, I only needed to cut 2 sheets of decking, as each row called for 2.5 sheets.

The Barn, Foundation part 3

With the inspection approved it was time for concrete.  After some measurements, I decided to pour 12" thick footers instead of the 10 inches that the plans called for. My reasoning behind that was that code calls for a 24" ground clearance, and a 10" footer would have required me to add an additional block, lifting the barn to almost 30" off the ground. I would be okay with this if we weren't using 2x12 as the subfloor, as this would have put our door 42" off the ground.

After putting a call in to a local concrete company, we were scheduled to pour.  Here's some wise advise about concrete that I'm glad I did not have to learn the hard way. DO NOT mix or pour concrete if the temperatures are bellow 34F. That day the low happened to be 34F, so I opted to pour after 10am to give the temp time to rise.

Here are the tools I used: 6'cu wheel barrow, standard shovel, float, and a hired back (the same friend who helped me dig the holes). 

If you do this your self, don't be cheap and skip the wheel barrow. The extra money spent on a GOOD one was well worth it. However, be careful, it gets heavy when it's half full. Why not just pour directly into the holes? You could do it for the outer holes, if you have the clearance, but I recommend asking the driver to take it slow, so you don't end up with too much in the hole. We could only do this with 1 hole, but I didn't want to risk knocking over a batter board, so we did it all the hard way. The end result was worth it.

We used an estimated 1.7 yards of concrete for the 12 footers.

After they set up for a day, I went back out to work on the the piers. This part is why I did not want to hit the batter boards. Setting the first pier too about 20 minutes from start to finish, without fill.

This step was pretty simple as long as the lines and rebar are in the right place. I just stacked 5 blocks with mortar in the joints. I think the hardest part is going to be filling the voids with block fill and setting the anchor bolts.

The Barn, Foundation part 2

Day 2 of digging holes for our footers was a much more successful day! I was able to get 6 more holes dug before my auger, and I, ran out of fuel. Sure the holes weren't pretty as the first, but they were a lot quicker.

In case you were wondering, this is how I used the auger to help me dig the holes.

On day 3, I was able to hire a friend to help me dig the final 5 holes, and we were able to knock them out in about 2-3 hours. All 12 holes were complete! Next, was what I assumed was going to be the easy part, rebar.

That day, I made a trip to one of the "big box" hardware stores in search of rebar, 5/8" #5, to be exact. All I could find on the shelves was 1/2" #4, and that was not going to cut it. So calling the "orange" hardware store, I was not given a definitive answer about what I needed. But, the nice folks at the blue store informed me that Mobile Lumber should have what I needed. Now I don't normally indorse hardware stores like this, but not only did they have what I needed, it was about $0.50/ft whereas the orange store was $1/ft.  While ML had what I needed, it was only available in 20' runs, and that was not fitting on top of my SUV. Refusing to leave there without it, the guy managing the lumber yard kindly volunteered to bring it the short distance to my folks house, where I planned to cut the 20' down to 96 - 18" pieces and 24 - 5' pieces. Of course, I had to pick up an angle grinder and some cut-off wheels (insert sly laugh, as I just "hate" buying new tools).

What the plans called for was a square of 8 - 18" pieces and 2 long verticals with a "J" bend, like this-

To hold th squares off the ground, I used 3 short runs of rebar as legs, although, it would have been better with 4. I would like to note that working in a tight spot like this was not easy.

Thankfully, we passed our first inspection.